Brittany was pretty tough to beat, but we soldiered on to the Loire – leaving butter, sea and salt behind. We headed off to Saumur, home of the fouee bread and to meet up with my cousin, Pam and her husband Mike. Pam and Mike are lucky enough to live on the island of Jersey – and have been holidaying for three weeks in France in their camper van, affectionately known as Gladys. Gladys always breaks down at the worst possible moment, and has been stuck on many narrow roads, probably more than her fair share, but Pam and Mike love Gladys anyway – she is freedom, fun and adventure all rolled into one van.
Paula and I stayed at a chambre d’hote near Saumur. La Demeure de Beaulieu was a former chateau built in 1733, nestled in the charming village of Coudray Macouard. We were a bit nervous as we got closer to our destination. We had driven past several power stations, (some nuclear) and passed what seemed like hundreds of power lines and towers en route to our chambre d’hote – but tucked away in an idyllic corner was our home for the next couple of days. There are, it seems, many nuclear power stations in France. Apparently almost 80% of power in France is derived in this manner – and the Loire is known as the “nuclear river”. I have checked, so you know, I do not glow in the dark as a result of my sejour on the Loire, but my liver may be in danger due the amount of wine consumed.
La Demeure de Beaulieu is run by Elisabeth Leick – possibly one of the most charmante ladies in France. Not only is her mini-chateau exquisitely renovated, but she is the perfect hostess – helping us with itinerary suggestions, directions, history of the region AND having studied oenology – she even gave us a private wine tasting – pulling from her collection that she houses in the 2000 square metres of caves that run underneath the house. (Sort of like my private wine collection, but only on a slightly larger scale) The former owners of the chateau died at the ripe age of 100. They had done nothing in the way of improvements during their 70 year tenure. Originally the chateau was part of a large estate – but the last heiress to inherit the house posessed, according to Elisabeth, the worst combination of passions: men and horses. In order to support her habits, she was forced to slowly sell off the vignes and eventually the house.
Sadly, the Loire appears to be closed on Monday. Seriously. Everything. Closed.
Chateaux de Breze – closed
Abbey de Fontevraud – closed
Boulangeries– closed
Wineries – closed
Restaurants – closed
Caution – some entire towns appear to be closed – or as Pam commented “Are all the town folk asleep in their beds?”
I have to tell you Gladys was our salvation. I’d love to tell you about a gastronomic meal I had at some Michelin starred restaurant, or about the magnificent fouees found only in this region, enjoyed fresh from the wood burning oven, but alas the Loire was closed. (The nuclear power plants and the military excepted) Instead, we dined chez Gladys, feasting on treats my cousin had collected during her three week tour of France: Duck confit from Perigord, Comte from the Jura, Chevre from the Loire, and bugles from the Carrefour. Yes, bugles, those tasty little salty snacks of your youth, and I can tell you they never tasted so damn good. Pam and Mike told tales of being chased down by the gendarmerie for getting Gladys stuck in a 17th century archway and we shared our many stories of butter from Brittany. We drank wine and had loads of laughs, at a lovely camping spot at the base of the Montreuil Bellay Chateau. The stars were brilliant at night, a full orange harvest moon hanging overhead as we made our way from Gladys back to our mini chateau. It was not what we had imagined for our short stay in the Loire, but Gladys, Pam, Mike and Elisabeth more than made up for what we missed out on due to the Loire being closed. Merci bien!
Go to the Loire on any day but Monday.
Here’s the info for Elisabeth’s wonderful chambre d’hote. You can procure bugles at almost any reputable Carrefour in France.
La Demeure de Beaulieu: http://demeuredebeaulieu.com/
