I miss Paris. I know, cry me a river. But I do. I really miss it. It’s just that everything there tastes…well…so good! I bought a “real” Camembert after just being home for a couple of days…it tasted like Styrofoam. There was no AOC mark anywhere on the package, I should have known better. My French professor would have been pounding his fist on the table crying “Non!!!”
So for now I have given up on Camembert in Toronto, unless I have a craving for Styrofoam. On to discover other French delicacies right here at home.
Croissants. Buttery, flaky, make a mess of your shirt, delights. These are everywhere in Paris. Surely I can come up with the goods here in Hog Town.
The benchmark: One Sunday in Paris I was strolling through a street market, when I noticed a small patisserie with a subtle “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (“MOF”) sign in the window. The MOF title is awarded every four years (consider it the Olympics of artisan craftsmanship) to various trades including architects, florists and carpenters. In the food category alone there are nine different awards. Competition is fierce, titles are coveted…the honour of carrying the MOF name, having it bestowed upon you by the President of France, and the glory of helping to guide the rest of your brethren in your craft, make winning the MOF a pretty big deal.
This MOF patisserie had the full array of French treats – chocolates, macarons, individual pastries….but it was the chocolate almond croissant I had my eye on. There were only two left. I hoped against hope the people in line ahead of me were not as partial to the chocolate almond croissant as I was. I was rewarded and wandered the market savouring each bite of the best croissant I have ever encountered. Darkly baked. Crispy. Buttery. Crumbs all over my sweater. Just the tiniest bit greasy. Delicious.
I continued my tour of the market, haunted by the thought of the one lonely chocolate almond croissant left at the MOF bakery. I headed back….if it was there it was meant to be. Sure enough it was. I stepped up to the counter. The girl looked at me as though she knew me. I smiled. I ordered. I became aware of tell-tale croissant crumbs on my chin. I was busted. Yes, I had just been in, but it was so good, I could not leave the lone croissant left behind…it was an act of charity…..really.
So this is what the Toronto croissant has to live up to. Big shoes to fill. I have several favourite haunts for croissants. But today, the taste of real Parisienne “MOF” croissants is fresh in my memory, like the Camembert was….can I find a taste equally as heavenly?
Bonjour Brioche on Queen East never disappoints. In addition to croissants, the baguettes are always rolling out of the oven so you can always get one super fresh, and their quiche is delightful. But they are closed the day of my craving. Rahier is legendary in this city, and they do make a mean croissant, but oddly I do not feel the urge to drive across the city for rude service. I hear great things about the new Nadege on Queen West near Trinity Bellwoods, but they too were closed.
Today was the day for Pain Perdu. The thing that is so great about Pain Perdu on St Clair Ave West, is that it’s not fancy by any stretch, but it is real. Just like a spot you’d stumble upon in the 15th arrondissement…..dark, kitschy and with a wonderful aroma wafting from the back. I order a sampling and practically skip to my car with my goodies. If only there were a bike I could hop on, and damn if I had not brought my beret with me.
I resist breaking the box open until I am back home. The smell of butter is irresistible. I take a close look. The flakiness of these little gems is “magnifique”! They have been well and truly baked to a dark, dark brown. Not sure why, but many North American bakers shy away from a dark bake – leaving many goods pale, limp and completely lacking flavour. The deep browning offered by a good bake delivers a richness of flavour – almost of caramelised butter…..mmmm…..caramelised butter…………what was I saying?
I dig in. The plain croissant is said butter delivered in a flaky, crisp form. There are crumbs everywhere. If you ever eat a croissant without making a complete mess, without leaving crumbs all down your front, you have not had the real deal. Pain au chocolat is flaky beyond belief, with not one but two “sticks” of chocolate….I am in love. Almondine is topped with well toasted almonds and a rich filling. Jocelyne is raisins and sugar syrup. Normally I do not choose raisins in anything, but in this crisp buttery duvet they are divine. There are crumbs everywhere. Charlie, my gourmet chocolate lab, is licking them off the floor as quickly as they are dropping.
We may not have MOF’s in Toronto, and I may not be able to find true Camembert de Normandy (yet!), but croissants get a big check mark…can be found at home almost as good as the MOF’s make ‘em, and certainly good enough to induce butter euphoria.
