“You are the only non-Italian we have ever hosted that actually likes Baccalau alla Vicenza!”
Vicenza, half way between Verona and Venice is a bustling industrial centre with a long tradition in the gold, leather and marble industry. From the Autostrada it looks like nothing, but the city centre is incredibly beautiful and well worth a visit.
Although not on the ocean, this pretty city has had a centuries long love affair with Baccalau – there are Baccalu societies and festivals, and most importantly there is Baccalau alla Vicenza. Baccalau traditionally means salt cod – cod that has been salted and dried in order that it may be kept for long periods of time to ensure people had something to eat throughout the winter. The Baccalau is then “reconstituted” through repeated soaking and draining. This removes the salt and restores the texture of the fish. Many folks were adamant to explain to me in half Italian/half English that the classic Baccalau alla Vicenza is NOT actually made with Baccalau but with “Stock fish” – same as baccalau but dried without salt. What they neglected to explain is that the stockfish/baccalau “alla Vicenza“ is simmered with onion in equal parts milk and olive oil for at least four hours. This is then served over polenta – another Italian staple who’s roots come from a time when these people had to be incredibly resourceful in order to survive. L’Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi makes this dish that has such humble roots in the most traditional way, on a bed of the creamiest polenta imaginable. I have never understood polenta until I took my first bite here, and if I am the first foreigner to enjoy this dish, I feel pity for those who came before me.
