“Mantova is a very important food town” we were told by several Italians, when I enquired as to whether or not it was worth a visit. Feeling that “an important” food town could not be missed – southbound we set. We did get stuck in some traffic on the autostrada, and chuckled when the police went by lights and sirens blazing – on the top of their car was a digital sign that said “incidente” – if the police in Toronto had similar signs they’d say “Out of the way – Tim Horton’s coffee run”…
Mantova did not disappoint. Gorgeous pastry shops aplenty, each showcasing gorgeous pastries and the classic Mantovan cookie called Sbrisolona. This not overly sweet cookie is made with lots of butter (we still are in the north after all!) and almonds, and is served with coffee for dipping. Stay tuned – I will be making these and once I find a good recipe will post here.
We wandered through to the stunning Piazza Sordello where many Italians were gathering to enjoy a leisurely Sunday afternoon in the sunshine, and toured the stunning Palazzo Ducale built in the 14th century. As expected, taking in all that art and culture made us ravenous despite nibbles of Sbrisolona as we walked, so we headed to Il Cigno in Piazza Carlo D’Arco. We were warmly welcomed into this classic restaurant housed in a 15th century home despite our jeans, and for a second day in a row were the only single English speaking people in the trattoria. Although I politely smiled and said “No parla Italiano”, this did not stop all of the staff from speaking to us continuously in Italian. We did a lot of smiling and nodding.
I was on a mission. I was looking for Risotto alla Pilotta. I was curious about this risotto that involved no stirring – but steaming of the rice, and then mixing with Reggianno and cooked pork. Cameron was less curious, but Il Cigno only makes this Mantovan classic for two – so he was in – like it or not. To say that to look at Risotto alla Pilotta is not pretty would be an understatement. It looks like boiled rice (which it is), mixed with boiled meat (which it is!). But the taste. Reggianno rules, with a mild but distinct meatiness…and the texture of the rice has a bite that keeps bringing you back. This to me was real comfort food. Delicious, simple…actually delicious in its simplicity. Pilotta is the Italian name for the worker who works the rice mill – difficult work that would require a hearty dish such as this for sustenance. The rice used is not Arborio – as commonly used in North America for risottos, but Vialone Nano a short grain rice from the region.
Full of risotto and Sbrisolona we ventured back to Verona – a concert in the 2000 year old Roman Arena awaited….
